Thornhill's Fine Dining (Arden)

Warning - this is a bit long (I guess all of my reviews are - ha!), but I feel like it takes that long to get the full effect of our evening.... apologies in advance. :)

By a stroke of sheer luck, Fat Kat and I heard about Thronhill's while dining in Asheville at Bouchon (a review for another time - great place!). We started chatting with the table next to us (the gentleman and I were both out on our birthdays) and they asked if we had tried "Thornhill's". Tried it? Never heard of it. Short story is that it is relatively new (opened perhaps in November 2007, maybe early December?) and is located in Arden, NC on Avery Creek Road (www.thornhillsfinedining.com). We live in Mills River, so to hear of a new upscale dining experience only 10 minutes from our house was exciting news indeed! It took us a few weeks to get there, but finally went a week ago. Thornhill's is in a renovated schoolhouse way off the beaten path. In a nutshell, we found the food to be very good and the service, well, odd. Not horrible really, just odd. Read on...

We made reservations as suggested by their website, but when we arrived a little early for our 7:00pm reservation, it was not mobbed. However, it is a very small place - only ten tables, so a reservation is probably never a bad idea. As I said, we got there a little early (15 minutes) and that's where the oddness started. A man peered out into the entryway when he saw us and came out to greet us. He said very tentatively, "well, I can tell you that I will be your server, but, um, well, David, will be out to seat you shortly. He is with some customers." Um, ok. I'm thinking, why aren't YOU allowed to seat us? But, whatever. I don't know their protocol. He shows us into a side room and hands us a menu to peruse while we wait. There were comfy bar stools, so we sat down, chatted with each other, and started going over the menu. We had already looked at their online menu which was similar, so we didn't take long to read over what was different. Meanwhile, another couple came in and were greeted in the exact same manner we were - equally tentatively. "David" was still nowhere to be found. The other couple looked as confused as we did, but we all sort of shrugged and waited. "David" finally shows up a couple minutes later (about 10 minutes after we originally got there) and quickly whisks the other couple and then us, off to our tables. Ok, so maybe things were going to pick up now!

We were seated and then waited a little too long. Now, I will back up a little and explain that we learned our server had just started working there a week ago, plus, he had the entire dining room, so we were certainly willing to cut him some slack. I'm usually pretty patient, but I was thirsty!! It was Friday night and I was ready for a drink! Well, Mr. Server (I don't remember his name) came by quickly with some really delicious bread, and I expected him to then ask what we would like to drink. Nope. He was gone again. Came back with a small (free) tasting of carrot soup, which was also really good! Great! Ok, I'm REALLY ready with my drink order!! Nope, he starts to leave again. So, this time I stop him and say, "um, excuse me, we'd like to order our drinks." I don't like to be pushy, but again, it's Friday night. I'm ready for a drink. He stops, looks a bit surprised and flummoxed. He says, "oh, yes, well, I'll get the chef over here for your drinks." HUH? He bustles right over to the chef (who happens to be standing in the corner and points us out to him). Mr. Chef comes over. Why in the world is the Executive Chef (I know this because it was embroidered right there on his chef's shirt) taking our drink order??! But, again, whatever. He says that he hears that we are ready for wine and he can help us with that. I said, "I actually just want a glass of red and you only have three [by the glass - they had tons by the bottle], so all I need to do is place my order." "Oh", sez he, "ok, well, may I recommend the cabernet?" Sure, knock your socks off. Sounds good to me, now could I just have it, PLEASE. Then, over to my husband (who he assumes is also drinking wine). My husband says, no, he would just like one of the beers (they had several very interesting ones). Mr. Chef than says, "oh, well, I'm not really a beer person - it's Budweiser and hot wings for me!" He acts a bit as though he's not even sure he can get the beer. We are worried now (Mr. Hot Wings and Bud is, theoretically, making our dinner). We chuckle nervously and off he goes. I see him over at the bar getting my wine and, thankfully, Fat Kat's beer. He brings them back. Ok, strange, but we're game.

We then sit there for an inordinate amount of time looking at the menu that we've already looked at online AND while waiting for the infamous "David" to seat us. Really, we know what we want. We even put the menus in the "we're done looking, we're ready to place our order" position (closed, on the table). Now mind you, we weren't in a hurry (ok maybe I was in a hurry for the drinks) and we weren't having a bad time, more of a confused time. We chatted, drank our respective drinks - both very good. We checked out the lovely decor - the main room of the schoolhouse done in warm colors, with bookcases surrounding, and original wooden floors. Tables were spaced well and nicely set. Even some very cool accessories on the ceiling (yes, we had time to notice those). Meanwhile "David" (whom we had now met - sort of a large mafioso type with dark suit, dark hair, but very friendly demeanor) continued to flit about the floor, chatting with customers, getting to know them - all.

Finally, Mr. Server comes by and asks if we are ready to order appetizers, then realizes we are ready to order everything. He really was very nice, just VERY tentative. So, we ordered the Coquilles St. Jacques for an appetizer ($12), I ordered the Potato Encrusted Sea Bass for an entree ($22) and Fat Kat ordered the Pork Wienerschnitzel ($18) and off he went.

We finally came to the conclusion that we think they were trying to go for the uber-customer service - individualized attention - David will seat you and chat with you ("get to know you"), the chef will help you choose a wine well-matched to your food, the server will, well, serve. It just didn't seem to quite work and all took waaaaay too long to accomplish. It almost seemed as though someone was missing for the night and they were all covering for each other in capacities they weren't used to.

While we waited for our appetizer, the server came by with more bread, which we happily devoured. By this time, I was already done with my glass of wine and was uncharacteristically ready for another one. When the server started to walk away, I mentioned that I would like another glass of wine. He, again, indicated that someone else needed to get that for me, so sent David over. Again. Strange. David knew I had the cabernet so happily refilled my glass. And lest you think I have a drinking problem; normally, the process moves along at a pace where I savor my one glass of wine all the way through my meal; but I was finished before the food even started showing up. I told Fat Kat that was how they sold more wine - take long enough that the customers order another glass.

But, back to the food....the Coquilles St. Jacques came out fairly quickly and was fabulous. It was small though for $12 - only three each of scallops (small ones), mussels, and shrimp; but it was really good. It confused me at first, because all Coquilles St. Jacques I've had before was more "robust" - served in a casserole with either mashed potatoes or a crumb topping of some sort. This was very simple in a bowl with an incredible white wine cream sauce and truffle oil. I guess the truffle oil accounts for the higher price tag and accounts for Fat Kat and I tilting the bowl and scooping up every last bite with a spoon! We tried to be inconspicuous... I did a little online research after I got home, and apparently, that is a common way to serve it. Ok, so I learned something new!

The entrees all come with a salad of mixed baby greens, tomato, cucumber, red onions, candied walnuts, and parmesan crisps. The dressings were all homemade and all vinegrettes with different fruit slants. I opted for the cranberry version and Fat Kat, the mango. Both salads were delivered promptly and were delicious.

Ok, on to the entrees - both were amazing. The sea bass was seasoned and seared and had strands of fried potatoes around it and on top. I remarked to Fat Kat that we need to start making those at home! With the sea bass was a pineapple/mango salsa and the vegetables of the day - snow peas and carrots. The Wienerschnitzel was tender and delicious. It came with a lemon cream sauce, mashed potatoes, and the same snow peas and carrots. We couldn't decide which entree we liked better - I would order either again. The rest of the entrees ranged in price from $18 to $29 and had a good variety.

Ok, back to the weirdness. By the way, Fat Kat was really enjoying watching my face all evening. As I monitored the goings-on of the staff and customers, my face was contorted into a confused symphony of raised eyebrows, furrowed brow and twisted mouth. One of the things that I found strange was that throughout the evening (I was facing the kitchen), the aforementioned Executive Chef would pop out of the kitchen door just about every five minutes and stand there, looking over the tables. I realize the chefs do like to know how the dishes are going over, but you don't typically see them standing in the dining room SO much. And if he's popping out and standing there every five minutes, who's preparing the food?? I know they have lots of people working in the kitchen, but still......again, with the "odd" factor. Also, the kitchen had two doors, one on either side of the room. But, apparently, the staff couldn't go through the kitchen to the other door. They would come out one door, then go over the other door, go in and pick up something else. The doors were frosted and so you could see shapes, but not details. There were frequent group "discussions" between David and the chef, David and Mr. Server, David and the kitchen staff, the chef and the kitchen staff. It was comical, really. This was all punctuated with periodic crashes from the kitchen. We heard no fewer than four - some small, some not so small. I figured this was just part of our entertainment.

We decided to split a dessert and opted for the Bananas Foster ($8). I have had it several times before and my only concern with it is that, occasionally, the alcohol is not completely burned off and is too strong for my liking. But, we decided to give it a go (oh, and requested no nuts, which they were happy to oblige). Again, it came out quickly and again, I was confused. In past tries, there was always some version of pastry included. This was simply sauteed banana in an amazing brown sugar/butter sauce and served with cinnamon ice cream which melted ever so slightly from the warmth. REALLY good. We ate every last bite and there was no harsh alcohol flavor - perfect! Again, I researched when I got home and apparently, the way they prepared it is the more classical New Orleans version (I've been to a lot of places, but I haven't been to New Orleans). Ok, I learned two new things!

Oh, and I forgot to mention that while we were eating, we noticed Mr. Chef coming out to bus a table. Again with my Huh? look. All we could think was that perhaps he was a part-owner and therefore taking an extra interest in how things were going and making sure everything was done properly. A question for another time.

All in all, our conclusion was that the food was fantastic, the decor, lovely and warm, but the service, as I said, was odd. I think (I hope) that the service will iron itself out over time, but if it doesn't get more organized, it could be their demise. We were there for two hours, which doesn't bother us, but may bother some others. So, that could be a problem, along with lack of advertising. That was one last piece of weirdness - we are chatting with David as we were leaving and I asked him where they are advertising. They are not exactly on a main street (or anywhere close to any population of customers or casual drive-bys) and I hadn't seen them advertised anywhere yet. David told me that, well, they weren't really advertising much yet. Again - HUH??! Granted, I don't own a restaurant and I don't know what their particular financial situation is; but I would assume that when you have only ten tables, you need butts in seats, preferably at least two seatings per night, to have any hope of making a profit. How do they expect to do that without advertising? Word of mouth is a beautiful thing, but it takes awhile to build up steam.

With all that went on (or didn't) you might think four forks is a bit generous, but the food WAS great. And the only real "negatives" were the timing on some things and who was doing them, the rest we just found entertaining. Our server actually did things very properly and was very nice, he just didn't seem to be allowed to do some things, like seat us and get drinks. So, we will be back for sure. I'll be very interested to compare this adventure to one down the road. Their four fork status will be in jeopardy if they haven't gotten themselves together in the service department within a few months. It really is a nice addition to the Arden area and we hope it will make it through this initial "sorting out" period.